Blacksmithing in the 1970s, courtesy of the ACC Library...
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First annual Sun Shower award winners (from left to right): poet Nikki Giovanni, dancer Kay Mazzo, and fashion designer Betsey Johnson. Also included in the photo (we believe) is presenter Frank Stamberg, President of Prince Matchabelli. Photo credit: Associated Press
One of the most fascinating aspects of library and archival special collections is that there is always something new to discover - or in this case, rediscover. Historic perspective determines what becomes interesting or remarkable about a collection; importance and relevance change and evolve over time.
Such is the case with the rediscovery of a couple hidden gems here in the ACC archives. While working as a library intern on one of the many projects designed to allow greater accessibility to the archival collection, I discovered photos of Betsey Johnson, fashion designer extraordinaire.
Johnson is known for her outrageous and boisterous fashion aesthetic: loud colors, bold patterns and body-hugging silhouettes. She has established her place in fashion history with a career that spans more than 50 years. A cutting edge designer, Johnson is known for innovation and career reinvention, reminiscent of 1980s pop culture diva, Madonna. Participating in the Youthquake fashion movement in the early 1960s, Johnson went on to earn membership into Andy Warhol's iconic underground revolution, and that's just at the beginning of her career.
In the early 1970s, mainstream society began recognizing Johnson's talent and contributions to the cultural landscape. On the eve of January 25, 1972, Betsey Johnson received the first annual Sun Shower award during a party sponsored by the Prince Matchabelli company at the new gallery of the American Craft Council, located on the main floor of the ACC's former national headquarters on West 53rd Street in New York.
The ACC gallery opened only days before, on January 22, 1972. Designed to feature "changing sales exhibitions of unique works in all craft media," the retail and event space highlighted internationally recognized contemporary American craftsmen and artists. This ACC endeavor was in direct response to the lack of recognition by the rest of the New York art community. While the physical retail presence of the ACC is no longer functional, the vision to provide a vehicle for the promotion of the American crafts movement still exists today.
The first photo we found includes fellow award winners Nikki Giovanni (poet) and Kay Mazzo (dancer from the New York City Ballet). Also included in the photo (we believe) is presenter Frank Stamberg, President of Prince Matchabelli. The award was bestowed upon outstanding women who "have achieved new heights in their careers in 1971."
In another photo from that same event, Johnson poses in front of a Lenore Davis fabric wall sculpture. Davis was at the time married to the award craftsman Bill Helwig, and a celebrated craftsman of the ACC in her own right.
As with everything else ACC-related, this event promoted the best of contemporary American crafts. Johnson's award was a two-dimensional enamel plaque by artist Harold B. "Bill" Helwig, purchased from the ACC's retail store. Helwig's work is best known for portraying "human figures in complex, highly charged relationships." Johnson's plaque depicts a nude female figure and flag in the background with three pieces of fruit (one with wings) in the foreground - apropos for such an avant-guard recipient!
What gems will we discover next in the collection? Stay tuned.
A weekly shout out to the printed word, From the Stacks highlights what's new and what's loved in the American Craft Council Library.
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Nov 18, 2011 4:20PM — Faythe Levine
This is just a fantastic piece of history. Thanks for the post.
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